Sunday, 20 November 2016

Time to awaken the writer in me

I've been meaning to update my blog since a while now. 

I started a new job earlier this year, the demands of which took over and my travel writing took a back seat. I also lost my 9 year old dog soon after my last blog post after which I didn't feel like writing. 


I have travelled a fair bit around India this year. Lots of weekend getaways and even an extended weekend getaway with my family for the first time in 15 years. Jaipur, Kasauli, Shimla, Mussoorie, Mumbai, Goa, Naldhera, Alwar, and most recently Kasol & a trek in Malana.

With the high pollution levels in Delhi, I was finding it hard to breath. In spite of buying oxygen inducing plants and wearing a mask outdoors, the city was beginning to stifle me. Fresh mountain air is what my body was craving. After asking for trek recommendations on a travel group on Facebook, I came across a travel community called Tripver. I like their website's UI & UX, they had great reviews and so I decided to book it. 

It was a 14 hour overnight Volvo journey from Delhi to Bhuntar, Kullu. Suprisingly, I managed to sleep quite comfortably during this time. We were woken up in Bhuntar, when we had to change buses as a Volvo cannot travel on the narrow road leading to Kasol. The seats on the local bus were freezing. I zipped up my jacket, put my hoodie on and sunk my hands into my pockets. The driver decided to wake us up by playing old bollywood songs at a really high volume. An hour later, we had reached our destination. Soon after getting off the bus, I took in a deep breath of crisp mountain air. With our rucksacks on our backs, we hiked down a mountain path, over a rickety wooden bridge, a few people at a time, over to the other side of the Beas. We then walked through the woods, passing a couple of cafes and homestays, to our hotel White House in Katalga, Kasol.

It was a quaint hotel with a huge garden full of flowers and vegetables growing on the side, overlooking the Beas. A breath of fresh air from my daily life in Gurgaon indeed. After lunch, we went for a long walk to Kasol and Chalal. Everyone stocked up on goodies, we did the same, buying old monk and chocolate balls from the German bakery. By the end of it, everyone had gone their own seperate way. As it was getting dark, we decided to make our way back with the help of torchlight. Many cars passed by, some with blaring music and buses swerving on the curves. We flashed the torch their way so that we wouldn't get run over. It was quite a long way back, 3 or 4 kms. Luckily, as soon as we reached the hill from where we were to begin our descent, we saw the others. We passed through the woods, over the rickety wooden bridge,  listening to the sound of the passing river.


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We sat around a bon fire later that night, one of the guys had a guitar. He took song requests, we all sang along and had a great time. Everyone struggled to get out of bed early the next morning. It was the day we had all signed up on this trip for - our trek to Malana, a remote village at a height of 8700 ft known for its hash around the world. We took a bus up to the trek's starting point. The bus journey was quite gruesome. As the villagers in Malana like to be cut off from the rest of the world, they have not let the government build a road there. As the road was very narrow, there were many times when you could not see the road below and it seemed like we were floating (with a few bumps here and there). I tried not to look down as all you could see was a sheer drop right into the Beas. The conductor was communicating with the driver through a whistle - two whistles indicated that there was room to manoeuvre and one meant he should stop. Every time there was a tough turn and the driver would reverse, the whistling began, making my heart sink with fear. An hour later, we reached the starting point for our trek. 
We found out later that ours was the only bus that had actually climbed up that hair raising route.

We were given instructions on how to behave in the village and not to touch anything as the villagers would otherwise create an issue and not let you leave till you paid a fine. We climbed 1200 plus steps to get to the top, stopping many times to catch our breath, realizing how unfit we all were. The locals seemed to climb up and down the mountain with ease. I found the village architecture to be quite unique.



There was what seemed to be a main square with wooden temples in it. There were wooden stilt houses all over the village, some of which had villagers sitting outside drying locally grown weed. A rare sight, I have to admit. They were carrying some of the freshly picked weed on their backs, we would get a strong whiff of it every time they passed us. We had cheese maggi, nutella pancakes and some tea to gather some energy for our way back.  


We had to walk an additional four kilometers to the bus as the driver refused to bring it back up all the way. Although the others were complaining, I was secretly glad as I didn't have the heart to sit through that hair raising journey again. Towards the end, the conductor who was waiting for us closer to the bus, suggested a short cut. It was a steep downhill trail, we had to sit on rocks, hold any vegetation we could get our hands on and make our way down carefully. That, according to me, was the highlight of the trek. While the others slowly made their way down, we waited by the riverside, watching the ripples in the water.

The next day we relaxed at our hotel, sitting by the riverside, eating and chatting; enjoying the peace and quiet of the mountains before returning back to the city madness.

Saturday, 20 February 2016

India-wards to Phuentsholing



As my time in the land of happiness was coming to an end, I headed towards Phuentsholing on the Indo - Bhutan border. I took an early morning bus from Thimpu and reached Phuentsholing 7 hours later. It was hot, dusty, dirty and a traffic jam ensued right outside the bus station. A stark contrast from the otherwise serene Bhutanese countryside I was used to. I hailed a cab and went looking for a budget hotel.

The cab driver took me to a few hotels, most of which were shady. I finally decided on one budget hotel called Everest, where some families were staying. The room was clean, airy and had a view of the high grill separating India and Bhutan on on side and mountains on the other. If I walked about 200 steps, I would be in India, half an hour ahead of Bhutan local time.

                   View from my room
Chicken Ema Datshi
Exhausted from all the travel, I slept through the afternoon. In the evening, I crossed over to India to turn on my Indian SIM card and call home. I felt like a time traveller when I crossed into India and back to the hotel, saving and losing time. My mother had asked for some Bhutanese tea cups and I went all over looking for them. Sadly, I could only find Chinese tea cups.

Entry to Bhutan from Jaigaon - India side
It suddenly dawned on me that I needed to get a stamp before exiting Bhutan. I went down to the immigration office where scores of fellow Indians had lined up to get a visa. It didn't take me much time to get the formalities done. I was told by a Bhutanese friend that I would not be able to enter Bhutan again in case my passport didn't have this stamp. I really didn't want to risk that as I am yet to explore Central and Eastern Bhutan on my next trip there.

I ordered Maroo chicken and rice for dinner, sipped on Takin wine while watching a documentary on Buddhism. I turned in for the night fairly early in order to catch my early morning bus to Darjeeling.

  

Sunday, 17 January 2016

Punakha - A Riverside Retreat

Punakha Dzong

Confusion ensued early morning when the driver called to inform me that he won't be able to take me to Punakha due to some official work that had unexpectedly cropped up. For the next half hour, I tried negotiating a good rate with other taxis and finally managed to strike a good deal. This last minute confusion delayed my departure by an hour. All's well that ends well, I thought.

The three hour drive was extremely bumpy and dusty due to massive potholes on the road or whatever was left of it. Shortly after the immigration check point, we reached DoChula Pass (3,100 mt) offering sweeping, panoramic views of the Eastern Himalayas. 108 chortens built by Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk, the eldest Queen Mother provided the perfect backdrop for many photographs. Being a clear day, I even caught a glimpse of the mighty Gangkar Puensum peak (7570 mts), the highest mountain in Bhutan and incidentally, the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. 

A two hour bumpy ride later, we reached Lobesa valley. We visited Chimi Lhakhang, a well known fertility temple, popular amongst childless Bhutanes couples. On your way to the temple, we passed some houses and shops which had huge phallus paintings on them, in all shapes and sizes. I posed for a couple of photographs, much to the amusement of my guide. It was completely bizarre and nothing like I had ever seen before. 

Phallus paintings
Welcome sign outside a shop

The temple was on a hillock, with great views of Punakha valley. On our way back to the car, I even got to sample some freshly brewed home wine right out of the pot. It was lukewarm, with a kick.
Half an hour later, we reached Khuruthang (Punakha) where I checked into Damchen Resort. It was a lovely riverside resort owned by the King's maternal grandfather. Luckily, I got upgraded to a river view room. I was tired, sweaty, full of dust and desperately needed a shower. After freshening up, I ordered some chicken chowmein and hogged on it. The taxi driver was waiting to take me to Punakha Dzong – Bhutan’s oldest; built on a confluence of two rivers. 

Outside Punakha Dzong
Steeped in history and structural beauty, it is undoubtedly the most beautiful Dzong in Bhutan. It is the main sight to see in Punakha. I spent about an hour wandering around inside, watching monks go by their daily lives. In the evening, I sat at the river bank, observing ripples on water. I felt much at peace and happy, being one with nature.