A Good Year

2018 has been a highly memorable year for many reasons. It has been a year of many adventures, beginnings and endings. All for a bigger and brighter 2019!

I stayed away from my usual, frequent short trips this year. Instead, I saved up and splurged on my big Euro trip. After all, I was going back to my favourite part of the world after 8 long years. Italy has a charm like no other. The art, people, food, music and serendipitous views had a resounding effect.

Greece’s Santorini is paradisiacal.  Breath-taking views as far as your eyes can see; the food a sensory delight. Soaking up the sun while sipping Ouzo, staring at varying shades of the Mediterranean sea made time stop still.

Earlier in the year, my love for the mountains took me back to Barot, a sleepy hill station in Himachal Pradesh. The place has changed considerably from what I remember from my younger years. I had the most incredible time sitting by the river, an umbrella in hand, listening to the sound of the rain and gentle waves.

My job took me to Sathkhol in Uttrakhand earlier this month. Gazing at the Milky Way on a clear night sky and waking up to a panoramic, snow-clad view of the Greater Himalayas took my breath away.  I hope to see more of this amazing state next year.

As I plan next year’s adventures, I took some time out to reflect on life’s lessons from this year’s journey. And boy, has it been a ride!

To bigger, happier adventures in 2019.

Enchanting Cinque Terre

Back in Europe!

Sunset from Piazza Michelangelo, Florence

I can’t help but feel immediately at home when I am in Europe. The cool breeze feels welcoming, the architecture familiar, the food awakens my senses and street music fills my soul. I just returned from a three week long break in Italy and Greece and am still basking in its afterglow (Quite literally with a nice Mediterranean tan!).

I landed in Milan during the world renowned Milan fashion week and the weekend engagement party of the daughter of one of India’s biggest business tycoons. Passing the placards for the guests of the said party, I made my way to the second busiest train station in Italy - Milano Centrale. And then it began. A trip of a lifetime. Experiences I would treasure forever.  The sun shone bright during most of the trip. On other days, massive grey clouds added a beautiful dimension to the otherwise blue skies.

Over the next few weeks, we witnessed beautiful landscapes, rich culture, not to mention stunning art and architecture. We watched in awe as the Tuscan sun set into the countryside; only after enveloping Florence and the surrounding villages in its amber glow. In Pisa, the setting sun draped us in its warm embrace while we leaned sideways on the famous tower for pictures.  

Sunset at the Leaning Tower of Pisa

The colourful towns of Cinque Terre stood out against a cobalt blue sea on a hot, clear day. Atop one of the 13 towers in San Gimignano, rain lashed down shortly after we had marveled at the beautiful scenery. Rolling hills, castles, houses, vineyards and olive groves bathed in the October rain as we got dry with a hot cup of cappuccino. The lemon capital of Italy, Sorrento offered panoramic views of the Napoli coast on a very windy day. Cruising down the extraordinary Amalfi coast was an experience that I will never forget. Salty sea water splashed us as we gazed at the rugged coastline with sheer cliffs, colourful villages, terraced vineyards and cliffside lemon groves. Santorini left me completely mesmerized with its caldera views and whitewashed buildings against the deep blue seas.

Sunset at Oia, Santorini

Views from Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre

Tunes flowed in from a string quartet band as we enjoyed evening lake views in the charming town of Bellagio, Lake Como. In fact, music was a constant throughout the trip. One night in Florence, I came across a solo violinist, a string trio and a guitarist in a span of 30 minutes. An accordion player kept crowds entertained on a packed train to Pompei. At the Acropolis museum in Athens, I enjoyed my lunch listening to the melodic tunes of a harpist. As we made our way back from watching the famous sunset in Oia, a harmonica player kept the crowds entertained.

It is rare that you come across picture postcard scenery on a daily basis. So much so, it seems like a dream. Over the next few weeks, I will be covering some of the highlights from my trip.

Stay tuned.

Barot: The Perfect Monsoon Getaway

Imagine waking up to the sound of the river, melodious birdsong, and the perfect morning view. As you sit by the river drinking your morning cup of tea, a green carpet of Himalayan deodar trees beckon. Dark clouds rumbling overhead as you set out on a morning walk. Expect this and much more at Barot, situated 6020 ft above sea level.  

View from our hotel - Taj River View

Set deep in the Himalayan valley, Barot is a trekkers’ and nature lovers paradise. It is most famous for trout farming and a gateway to the Nargu Wildlife Sanctuary. It is roughly an 8-hour drive from Chandigarh. You could also break your journey at Palampur or Bir-Billing for a night and then head upwards. Here are the top things to do while you are there:

1. Visit a trout farm – Although a major tourist spot, there was nobody there when I visited. It was interesting to see the famous trout fish at different stages of the lifecycle, from fry (baby trout) to sub-adult to a fully grown adult. They seemed to be enjoying each other’s company, as they swam together.

Natural waterfall

      2. Visit a waterfall – In the rainy season, you are likely to come across more than one waterfall here. If you are walking from Barot Reservoir towards Jharwar, you will pass a natural car wash, opposite which lies a lovely green pasture. Walk towards the mountain, and you will come across a small waterfall flowing down. This is a great place for a picnic or to just relax. Sheshnag waterfall is another popular attraction, though not as impressive.

        3.  Sit by the river – Take a good book or company and plonk yourself on one of the huge rocks by the river. There is nothing more meditative than listening to the gushing river while raindrops fall on your head. Take an umbrella, just in case there is a heavy downpour!

     4. Take a hike – With so many forest trails to choose from, it is hard not to go for a hike. Climb up a mountain and you are likely to come across a friendly local or two who are eager to help. Walk amongst deodar trees, breathe in fresh mountain air and forget your worries in this paradisal valley.

  5. Gorge on fish delicacies – Barot is a delight for nonvegetarians. From fish curry to fish pakodas to steamed fish, there is plenty to choose from. Taj River View Hotel has amazing food, perhaps one of the best there.

If you are looking for the perfect long weekend getaway, pack your bags and head to Barot. You will come back rejuvenated.

p.s: I love writing such pieces especially when the monsoon gods are showering us with their blessings! Like this morning :)

Monsoon Travel

Munnar, Kerala

As grey clouds loom high above, followed by thunder and raindrops splatter the window, I gaze outside. My mind is brimming with joy as I sip hot tea, with my notepad in tow. This is one of my favourite times of the year.

With the summer crowds gone, it is also a great time to travel, especially for nature lovers. Here are some of my favourite monsoon trips (in no particular order):

1. Kasauli – I remember the mist seeping into our room through the wooden ‘jaali’ door at Birds View Resort, after a thundershower. The cool breeze interspersed with fresh, earthy smells of the surrounding forest is always refreshing. If you set out for a walk soon after, you can hear the call of the partridge and bird song around every bend. It is our family tradition to have an evening BBQ with old classics playing in the background, ending the night on a ‘high’ note.

2. Barot – My early memories of this beautiful hill station are from when I was about 10 years old. When I went back last month after ages, this picturesque hill station did not disappoint. The monsoon showers had hit Himachal Pradesh by then, turning this riverside retreat into a memorable weekend. I spent a lazy afternoon by the Uhl river, watching the rain fall as I lay there under an umbrella; while the gushing river provided the perfect background score.

3. Goa – Although monsoon travel seems to have caught on in this tiny state, I would still recommend visiting Goa during monsoons. South Goa is a great place to stay in as it’s less crowded. On a mid July afternoon, my friends and I roamed around a deserted Colva beach, enjoying the salty sea breeze as it poured. Peri peri prawns and beer in a beach shack tasted wonderful afterwards.

4. Munnar – Although it is a good idea to be anywhere in Kerala at this time of the year, Munnar is definitely worth a visit. Lush green hills, tea gardens, cool breeze and a hot Shirodhara massage make for a great combination. Driving through misty meadows, picking tea leaves or simply trying out one of the many varieties of tea make for an unforgettable trip.

A trek to the high altitude, glacial Kareri Lake

At Kareri lake

On the May Day weekend, I along with my brother decided to go on a trek to a relatively lesser known destination – Kareri Lake. We were a group of 12 people, a mix of solo travellers, friends and siblings (a rare pairing, as we learnt). What we all had in common was our eagerness to escape the humdrum of our city lives.

Aman and I

We were served a buffet breakfast at Kareri village, our starting point for the 15 kms trek, with a hearty serving of the snow clad Himalayas on the side. Our group leader, Ashish gave everyone some instructions on responsible travel and we were on our way. We trekked through green pastures, blooming rhododendron trees and broad leaf forests. Once the actual trail began, we were literally climbing up the river bed, traversing huge rocks in the process. A few lunges later, I could feel the muscles in my thighs awaken. We kept moving ahead, taking frequent breaks along the way.

The first stop was next to a small waterfall where we filled our water bottles with fresh, chilled stream water. Some people dipped their feet in the water while the more adventurous ones, their heads. I munched on chocolates and frooti along the way in order to keep my energy levels high. The clean air, flora and fauna were such a welcome relief from my busy city life. A black dog kept us company along the way, stopping as and when we would.

We were close to our base camp, Reoti village, when dark clouds set in. As thunder roared above our heads, we kept walking ahead. Light rainfall followed. We stopped for a late lunch at a small café set inside a cave. A short while later, we crossed over a metal bridge and reached Reoti village. Everyone took a moment to take in the beautiful scenery; sheep grazing on the mountains and the Nyund nallah flowing through.

Campsite at Reoti village

Our camp for the night was set in a deep valley; a bamboo bridge dividing tents on either side. Our tent had the most magical view, of the forest and the stream running through. Just when everyone was settling in, there was heavy rainfall. Aman, my brother and I listened to the Doors as raindrops battered our tent. Our evening snacks comprising of tea, popcorn and maggi were just what we needed to enjoy the lovely weather and scenery.

At night, everyone shared their stories huddled around a bon fire under the starry night sky.

One of the many ladybirds

Up the river bed

We embarked upon the remainder of our trek the next day, right after breakfast. Along the way, I took a dip in the icy cold waters, which was one of the trip highlights for me. Many others followed suit. The trail was tiring yet picturesque; I took frequent breaks to admire nature in all its glory. There were all kinds of ladybirds along the way, their body designs fascinating.  

As we reached the top of the valley, we could see the snowy mountains up close. The sight of the beautiful, fresh water Kareri Lake amidst snowy mountains made me forget all about the arduous journey that we had undertaken.

As we trekked up the rocky, sometimes steep trail, I was reminded of challenging situations that I had faced recently; the trick is to keep swiftly moving ahead.

A nightout at Siem Reap

The Sunday Tribune, 13 May 2018

A Spring Poem

With a spring in my step, I walk out the front door;

To smell the blossoming flowers and lose some of those kilos;

It is time to plan a trip, a getaway to the mountains;

Climb up a hill or to sit still in nature?

With adventure instilled, a trek it is;

Amongst Pine and Rhododendron forests, gushing streams;

A place where I am the happiest, my soul at ease;

Cool breeze & Dhauladhars, to make me go weak in my knees;

With less than a week to go,

My face aglow;

Thoughts swarming like bees, travel light please.

- Saachi Dhillon

A Weekend in Rishikesh

On the banks of the holy river - Ganga

Known to many as the Yoga capital of the world and India’s spiritual hub – Rishikesh is a popular getaway from Delhi. A lot of us go there for rafting on the Ganges, for others, it is a spiritual sojourn. I went there earlier this month for some quiet time after an extremely hectic period at work. Although I had booked an ashram, we were later upgraded to their yoga retreat centre and resort due to some urgent renovation work at the ashram.

Amidst nature at Tapovan Vatika Resort

Situated a few metres from the tempo stand and the main road, Tapovan Vatika Resort is a great place to get in touch with your inner self. It has three large gardens, blooming flowers and is surrounded by fields and mountains. With regular yoga and meditation classes, it can be a great getaway for anyone looking to get in touch with their spiritual side.

My friend and I had taken a book each to read on our trip. In between reading, we went to different eating joints across town in search of good food. Being a religious place, Rishikesh is largely vegetarian and alcohol free (unless you are carrying your own). Here is my list of where to eat while you are there.

Ayur Pak

1.       Ayur Pak – This is a quiet, green homestay away from the city’s hustle and bustle. We had vegan dosas with sambhar and imli chutney, grilled vegetable sandwiches and a chocolate pancake. It was the most fulfilling breakfast I had on my entire trip. Although the flavors were different from what I am used to, it felt wholesome and filling.

Meat Lovers pizza

2.       Bistro Nirvana – Probably the only non vegetarian bistro in Rishikesh, it was a welcome break from all the vegetarian fare. After a long hike to the Beatles ashram on an unusually warm day in March, a cold soft drink and a meat lovers’ pizza was the perfect comfort food.  Surrounded by trees, Bistro Nirvana is a welcome escape from the heat.

3.       Himalayan Kitchen - Rooftop Cafe & Restaurant – We had dinner here on two consecutive nights as the ambience and views were great. The food was not that bad either; do try their ginger tea, tomato soup and pancakes.

4.       Tulsi Café – Located on the main road in Tapovan, it is a cosy café. Food is great but their service was incredibly slow when we were there. A Hawaiian pizza and fresh lime soda took about an hour to arrive. They were quick with the hummus and pita after which we along with other diners had to wait a lot. It is worth a visit but go there if you have a lot of time to kill.

Top Tips for the Perfect Winter Vacation in Kashmir

Nothing prepares you for a trip to the valley of Gods, Kashmir. In winter, a never-ending range of mountains draped in white welcome you with open arms.  The warm hospitality of the locals, rich local cuisine and picturesque views will make this a vacation like no other.

Here are the top things to do while there:

Views from our houseboat: On a very cold morning

     1. Stay on a houseboat: There are over 1500 houseboats in Dal lake. From warm hospitality, delicious food to sweeping views of the valley, White House Group of Houseboats offers an authentic experience like no other. Sipping hot kahwa on a cold day, while watching people go by their daily business on shikaras is an unforgettable experience.

        2. Dig into Kashmiri Wazwan: A trip to Kashmir without tasting some of the region’s delicacies is incomplete. Kashmiri Gustaba and naan at Srinagar’s Ahdoos restaurant (Kashmir valley’s first ever restaurant) is mouth-watering. The bakery downstairs serves delectable cakes and biscuits as well. Do pack some goodies for your trip to Gulmarg as there are no bakeries there.

Views from 14.500 ft

        3. Experience snow like never before: In Gulmarg, the exquisite beauty all around is sure to make your jaw drop. Everything is covered in a thick, white blanket of snow making it a white paradise. Fresh snow feels soft and crisp under your rubber boots (available for hire from Rs. 100 per day) and is perfect for a snowball fight. The panoramic views from Apharwat Peak (14,500 ft) of Gulmarg and the surrounding valleys including Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft) will take your breath away.

Sleighing around!

       4. Go on a sleigh ride: Although Gulmarg is known as Asia’s seventh best ski destination, there is another fun activity that you may partake in while there – sleighing. Weather conditions permitting, you can sleigh down from your hotel all the way down to the gondola or even the main skiing zone. The most enjoyable sleigh ride is from Phase 1 Gondola all the way down to the base. Prices start from Rs. 300 per person for a couple of hours.

Gulmarg

Views from the Gondola

It took us roughly two and a half hours to reach Gulmarg. We stopped on the way to buy some dry fruit at wholesale prices. I spotted some saffron face cream on one of the shelves and could not resist buying some, knowing my penchant for body care.

After renting rubber boots for Rs. 100 per day at Tungnath, we started our incline towards the snowy mountains. It was a sunny day and the snow shone bright as we followed the meandering road amidst mountains draped in white. As soon as we reached Gulmarg, we were greeted by a lovely, white landscape. A lot of tourists were trying their hand at skiing and the even more adventurous were sleighing through the snow. I could not wait to unload the luggage, freshen up and go for a walk in the snow. A short distance from our hotel, our taxi skidded on some ice and got stuck. The driver decided not to proceed further without snow chains. I put on my rubber boots and made my way up, slipping from time to time on the icy road.

We went for a short walk after relishing some mutton rogan josh and naan. Playing around, my friend slipped and fell into fresh snow, two - three feet deep. We had a good laugh. In order to warm ourselves up, we went to a closeby café called Raja Hut for some Kahwa. It was a cosy place and reminded me of the cafés in Manali; maybe because the owner was playing trance music. We met some fellow travellers there and got talking about things to do in Gulmarg. As it was about to get dark, we decided to head back to the hotel, before the temperature would start plummeting drastically.

View from the room

Hotel Lounge

Hotel Rosewood is a delightful, boutique hotel with comfortable rooms, lounge and hookah bar.  I enjoyed their food as well, especially their grilled cheese sandwiches and lamb bolognaise. The next morning, we enjoyed a sleigh ride to the gondola entrance. We had bought our tickets online so it was fairly easy getting in. The gondola ride was a lot of fun as well, offering panoramic views. I even spotted some paw marks on the snow below. Our guide told us that there were many snow leopards and deer in the area.

View From Top

We rode straight to Phase two of the gondola - Apharwat Peak, at a height of 14,500 ft. Our guide took us for a short hike through 2 ft deep snow. I was amazed by the stunning, birds-eye view of Gulmarg and the surrounding valley including Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft). There were clouds below and it seemed like we were in heaven. We saw Pakistan occupied Kashmir in the distance and learnt that that it is more beautiful than what we have.

At Apharwat Peak

After spending an hour in the freezing cold, we headed down to Phase 1 for lunch. We had some delicious Kashmiri pulao along with Kahwa. As the snow mobile ride was expensive, starting at Rs. 1500 per person for a short ride, we decided against it. We continued our sleigh tour for the rest of the afternoon. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

On a sleigh

Once back at our snug hotel, we savoured the Old Monk that we had bought from Srinagar. It was the perfect way to end a great day.

The Valley of Gods - Srinagar

View from top

My stomach was in knots as I boarded the Air India flight to Srinagar. There was a large group of old pilgrims dressed in white, ignoring the ground staff’s instructions and jumping the queue; in turn making me jumpy. I managed to get a window seat by requesting my fellow passenger; I took this to be a good omen for our impending holiday.

My nervousness dissipated into thin air as soon as we entered Kashmir’s airspace. I was greeted by swathes of high mountain ranges draped in white, with a sliver of an emerald green river passing through. The stark contrast is hard to forget. As we were about to land, the mighty, snow clad Greater Himalayan range encircled us. As we flew above the clouds, it felt like I was in heaven.

Am I in heaven?

Srinagar airport was freezing. We had to wait for some time for the luggage to be loaded onto one of the only two conveyor belts. A charter flight carrying BSF officers had just landed, giving us a sense of the fragile situation there. Our houseboat owner had sent a taxi to pick us up. As we were getting into the car, I breathed in the fresh, crisp air layered with a sweet floral scent.

Our driver gave us some tips on what to eat and where to go in a 45 minute ride to Dal Gate. We were taken to our houseboat on a shikara which was quite a novel experience. Ibrahim, our host greeted us with Kashmiri Kahwa. It felt good to hold something warm in my hands. After relishing Rista and mutton biryani for lunch, we set out on a shikara tour to the nearby floating market, Meena Bazaar as well as many other attractions. We kept ourselves warm under the blanket provided on the shikara.

Our wooden houseboat - best views!

We had mixed vegetable pakodas and hot kahwa at one of the floating shops in sub zero temperature. For me, this was the highlight of the tour. We bought Phirans from Meena Bazaar which made the cold bearable.  There was a woodworks store about three generations old, full of interesting furniture, cutlery and home décor. There was a collapsible study table made out of walnut wood that would double up as a centre table. We picked up some lovely stuff and the owner gave me a free piggy bank that I had been eying.

Maharaja's house on Dal lake

Floating market

As it was getting dark and colder, the shikara owner urged us to make our way back to the houseboat. We had spent more money than we had intended to, on our first day there. Eager to explore the area more, we headed out for dinner later to a well known restaurant - Shamyana. We gorged on their special Kashmiri pulao along with Mughlai chicken in a conservative setting.

Happy with dinner, I quickly changed into my night clothes, slipped under three blankets and huddled with a hot water bottle as the mercury dipped further into the night.