Gulmarg

Views from the Gondola

It took us roughly two and a half hours to reach Gulmarg. We stopped on the way to buy some dry fruit at wholesale prices. I spotted some saffron face cream on one of the shelves and could not resist buying some, knowing my penchant for body care.

After renting rubber boots for Rs. 100 per day at Tungnath, we started our incline towards the snowy mountains. It was a sunny day and the snow shone bright as we followed the meandering road amidst mountains draped in white. As soon as we reached Gulmarg, we were greeted by a lovely, white landscape. A lot of tourists were trying their hand at skiing and the even more adventurous were sleighing through the snow. I could not wait to unload the luggage, freshen up and go for a walk in the snow. A short distance from our hotel, our taxi skidded on some ice and got stuck. The driver decided not to proceed further without snow chains. I put on my rubber boots and made my way up, slipping from time to time on the icy road.

We went for a short walk after relishing some mutton rogan josh and naan. Playing around, my friend slipped and fell into fresh snow, two - three feet deep. We had a good laugh. In order to warm ourselves up, we went to a closeby café called Raja Hut for some Kahwa. It was a cosy place and reminded me of the cafés in Manali; maybe because the owner was playing trance music. We met some fellow travellers there and got talking about things to do in Gulmarg. As it was about to get dark, we decided to head back to the hotel, before the temperature would start plummeting drastically.

View from the room

Hotel Lounge

Hotel Rosewood is a delightful, boutique hotel with comfortable rooms, lounge and hookah bar.  I enjoyed their food as well, especially their grilled cheese sandwiches and lamb bolognaise. The next morning, we enjoyed a sleigh ride to the gondola entrance. We had bought our tickets online so it was fairly easy getting in. The gondola ride was a lot of fun as well, offering panoramic views. I even spotted some paw marks on the snow below. Our guide told us that there were many snow leopards and deer in the area.

View From Top

We rode straight to Phase two of the gondola - Apharwat Peak, at a height of 14,500 ft. Our guide took us for a short hike through 2 ft deep snow. I was amazed by the stunning, birds-eye view of Gulmarg and the surrounding valley including Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft). There were clouds below and it seemed like we were in heaven. We saw Pakistan occupied Kashmir in the distance and learnt that that it is more beautiful than what we have.

At Apharwat Peak

After spending an hour in the freezing cold, we headed down to Phase 1 for lunch. We had some delicious Kashmiri pulao along with Kahwa. As the snow mobile ride was expensive, starting at Rs. 1500 per person for a short ride, we decided against it. We continued our sleigh tour for the rest of the afternoon. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

On a sleigh

Once back at our snug hotel, we savoured the Old Monk that we had bought from Srinagar. It was the perfect way to end a great day.

A Perilous Journey Home

When Shimla received the season's first snowfall, everybody was in a jubilant mood, all set to go and enjoy the snow. I was in Tattapani, 53 kms away from Shimla, when I heard that it had snowed. I have to admit that I was quite excited myself.

Having lived in London, I have experienced snowfall numerous times, built snow men with soft, fresh snow, slipped and fallen in the snow and have even celebrated a white Diwali! I love it when it snows; trees, cars and the roads are painted a beautiful shade of white and I just can't seem to get enough of it. We were leaving for Chandigarh that day and heard that Shimla was snowed in and shut to vehicular traffic. Upon inquiring from locals, we were advised to take a detour via Salaghat onto Dharampur and then Chandigarh. 

Sleet falling on the way to Dhami

We drove towards Dhami, the closest town en route, experiencing steady rainfall, sleet at a higher altitude and a hailstorm shortly afterwards. Needless to say, the weather was not getting any better and we were eager to get home in one piece. To make sure that we were on the right track, we asked another a couple of other people for directions. They told us about a short cut via Ghanati which would get us closer to our original route so we decided to take it. The road leading there was narrow and had minor landslides. Although we were apprehensive at first, we decided to carry on. A km or so afterwards, the condition of the road deteriorated. There were massive potholes and avoiding them in the incessant rain wasn't easy. There was a sheer drop on the right side of the narrow road so we couldn't turn back. You could feel the tension in the car as everybody sat quietly. We carried on at a speed of 20 kms/ hr and it took us an hour to cover the 15 km stretch.  

Soon after, we were approaching powdered mountains, covered with a thin layer of freshly fallen snow. We passed meadows, houses, vehicles abandoned on the side of the road - all covered under a white blanket. 

Post Ghanati

Snow all around!

Frozen bush

Frozen leaves of tree

I tried capturing a picture of frozen leaves on the road side in the moving car but couldn't quite get the angle I had wanted. 

We were on the main road again. Everyone was relieved and happy to be back in civilization, until we were told that the road ahead was blocked due to snow. We had to re-route again. 

We turned around and made our way towards Arki, passing through thick fog, in which even the bonnet of the car was not visible. It started pouring once we reached Arki. Thankfully, the road ahead was in good condition, narrow but a hundred times better than the previous stretch. 

Rain lashed down on us as we drove on the narrow, winding road ahead. We could only hope that we were on the right track. Shortly afterwards, a car with a Chandigarh number plate overtook us. All of us heaved a sigh of relief. We were extremely lucky not to have gotten stuck because of a land slide, inspite of continuous heavy rain and hail. 

Hailstorm on the way to Subathu

The car slid a couple of times, at turns because of the ice on the road. In a span of four hours, we had witnessed all forms of condensation! Once we reached Subathu, the weather cleared up and we got a glimpse of the setting sun. The journey thereafter was smooth. 

Gorgeous hues of the sky

At Dharampur, we stopped to grab a bite at Hot Millions, a popular eating joint. While eating, I looked up to see the outside traffic hauled up and a man in khaki running after another with a huge stick. I thought the cops were after a thief or something. Till I was told that the bus driver ( in khaki ) was running after a car owner whose car he had banged into. Cops had to intervene and get the disrupted traffic moving again. It was an amusing sight, made us temporarily forget about the treacherous journey we had just undertaken. 

5 Reasons to have a Winter Himalayan Vacation

Winter is most definitely upon us. A lot of us have been enjoying the afternoon sun, at home or even at our offices,  getting out of our cubicles for a stroll to soak up some sunshine. As the year is coming an end, a lot of us are making vacation plans for Christmas/ New Year. While many people prefer a warmer destination - Goa or Thailand, being a hot favourite amongst us Indians, here are 5 reasons why you should buck the trend and head to the mountains this winter.

1. Scenic beauty - Everybody travels for different reasons. Whether you are looking for some peace of mind after the crazy late nights at the office, need some quiet time to focus on yourself or a fun trip with friends, the mountains are beckoning you. The crisp mountain air, snow covered peaks, fresh water rivers and streams, wildlife sounds in the morning will surely put a smile on anyone's face. In that moment, all the noise and stress from your city life will be forgotten. 

2. Fresh perspective - The fresh mountain air will open up your mind, spirit and being to fresh, new possibilities in life. You will be able to reflect on your current circumstances in a calm and balanced manner. A trip to the mountains in the winter will leave you feeling rejuvenated, ready to take on the world with a fresh, new mind set. 

3. Adventure sports - For the adventurous, fun seeking lot, winter sports are definitely worth a try. At Solang Valley last year, I tried skiing, which requires an incredible amount of strength, endurance and balance. I also enjoyed driving an All Terrain Vehicle (OTV) in the snow and downhill, zipping through the long traffic jam. Para gliding, snow boarding, sledging and zorbing are some of the other options there. Gulmarg in Kashmir is a beautiful skiing destination, comparable to the Swiss Alps I hear. 

4. Away from the crowd - Depending on your preference, you can choose a getaway to a quaint village tucked away somewhere in the Himalayas or a busy city like Shimla. Barot, in Mandi district is a great option if you're looking for a quiet get away. Surrounded by the Dhauladhar range of Himalayas, with Uhl river passing through, Barot is a picturesque valley, well known for its trout & trekking trails. 

5. Discover a new you - Some of the most famous writers and poets are known to have been inspired by the beauty of the Himalayas. You can get completely spellbound by the surrounding natural beauty and might even discover the hidden poet in you. That is exactly what happened to me in Ladakh last year, when I just couldn't seem to put my pen down, and have been writing ever since! 

“Chasing angels or fleeing demons, go to the mountains.”
(Jeffrey Rasley)

A trek in snowy Manali

Last Christmas, I participated in the Youth Hostel Association (YHA) of India's Winter Trekking Expedition in Manali.  I had been to Manali loads of times before, but never for an organized trek. Everyone told me that there was no point in going somewhere I had been before, but I am glad that I did. It is one of my most treasured experiences till date. 

View of Solang Valley

YHA Manali is located in picturesque Prini village, on the road leading to Naggar. The auto ride there was lovely, with snow clad mountains on either side. The early morning chilly air on my face was refreshing. After checking in, I went down for some left overs from breakfast as it was past the set time. That's when I realized that I must get into hostel mode quickly in order to not miss out on meals. The view from my room's balcony was breathtaking, overlooking snowy peaks including Solang Valley. 

Icicles on the roof

I went solo as none of my friends were feeling adventurous enough to brave the cold. Although I may have gone alone, I never felt alone there. My Maharashtrian room mates and I had a ball, playing cards/ board games, eating bhakarwadi and home made ladoos in the evenings, exhausted after our respective treks. It's always a good idea to carry snacks or sweets with you for a trek, for in between meals. The temperature would drop to -5 degrees celsius at night. Everybody was assigned a mattress, sleeping bag, a blanket and a pillow each. I froze the first night inspite of having slept in my sweater, 2 pairs of socks, gloves, scarf and a woolen cap! Luckily, somebody left a duvet behind the next day, which kept me warm for the next 4 nights. 

Hostel from a distance

Every morning, we would run down for hot tea at 6 am, get dressed and be ready with our tiffins for breakfast soon after. A few of us would actually go down for yoga at 5 am! I never did manage that. Mostly, because I wanted to be in the warmth of my bed for as long as possible. Initially, it seemed like boot camp but I soon realized how discipline was essential to the programme running smoothly. By 9 am, everybody was off for their respective treks, usually involving at least 10 kms of walking. In between, we would get time to rest, look around or just sit by the river in meditative silence to take in the panoramic view of Kullu valley. We would come back exhausted after the trek and then run down for pakoras and tea in the evenings. It was important to get to the dining hall as soon as the bell rang or risk getting no pakoras/ snacks. 

                      

My favourite trek was the one to a nearby village on the neighbouring mountain. We trekked up the mountain through deep snow and ice. Some of the people backed out, as they were not used to a steep climb. The rest of us carried on to the top and met a baba there. He had been living in isolation and was happy to see us. He sang and played a bhajan for us on his harmonium and gave us interesting insights into life in general. On our way back, some of the boys slid down the mountain as they couldn't keep their balance in the snow. It was a really funny sight. Soon enough, there was a snowball fight where I seemed to be the favourite target. We also got a chance to try some sledging on the icy road with locals, while passing through their village. 

On the last night, we all exchanged contact details to keep in touch for any forthcoming treks. After all the group pictures had been taken, some of us went out to drink some wine and have sheesha under the clear, starlit sky. I saw two shooting stars that night and I wished for more times like these.