Gulmarg

Views from the Gondola

It took us roughly two and a half hours to reach Gulmarg. We stopped on the way to buy some dry fruit at wholesale prices. I spotted some saffron face cream on one of the shelves and could not resist buying some, knowing my penchant for body care.

After renting rubber boots for Rs. 100 per day at Tungnath, we started our incline towards the snowy mountains. It was a sunny day and the snow shone bright as we followed the meandering road amidst mountains draped in white. As soon as we reached Gulmarg, we were greeted by a lovely, white landscape. A lot of tourists were trying their hand at skiing and the even more adventurous were sleighing through the snow. I could not wait to unload the luggage, freshen up and go for a walk in the snow. A short distance from our hotel, our taxi skidded on some ice and got stuck. The driver decided not to proceed further without snow chains. I put on my rubber boots and made my way up, slipping from time to time on the icy road.

We went for a short walk after relishing some mutton rogan josh and naan. Playing around, my friend slipped and fell into fresh snow, two - three feet deep. We had a good laugh. In order to warm ourselves up, we went to a closeby café called Raja Hut for some Kahwa. It was a cosy place and reminded me of the cafés in Manali; maybe because the owner was playing trance music. We met some fellow travellers there and got talking about things to do in Gulmarg. As it was about to get dark, we decided to head back to the hotel, before the temperature would start plummeting drastically.

View from the room

Hotel Lounge

Hotel Rosewood is a delightful, boutique hotel with comfortable rooms, lounge and hookah bar.  I enjoyed their food as well, especially their grilled cheese sandwiches and lamb bolognaise. The next morning, we enjoyed a sleigh ride to the gondola entrance. We had bought our tickets online so it was fairly easy getting in. The gondola ride was a lot of fun as well, offering panoramic views. I even spotted some paw marks on the snow below. Our guide told us that there were many snow leopards and deer in the area.

View From Top

We rode straight to Phase two of the gondola - Apharwat Peak, at a height of 14,500 ft. Our guide took us for a short hike through 2 ft deep snow. I was amazed by the stunning, birds-eye view of Gulmarg and the surrounding valley including Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft). There were clouds below and it seemed like we were in heaven. We saw Pakistan occupied Kashmir in the distance and learnt that that it is more beautiful than what we have.

At Apharwat Peak

After spending an hour in the freezing cold, we headed down to Phase 1 for lunch. We had some delicious Kashmiri pulao along with Kahwa. As the snow mobile ride was expensive, starting at Rs. 1500 per person for a short ride, we decided against it. We continued our sleigh tour for the rest of the afternoon. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

On a sleigh

Once back at our snug hotel, we savoured the Old Monk that we had bought from Srinagar. It was the perfect way to end a great day.