Sunday, 26 September 2021

The Lama House


This one has been a year in writing. Nestled amidst apple orchards, deodars and lush green meadows, lies a quiet haven called the Lama House. Home to Pavane Mann, a mountaineer, adventurer and storyteller, her warm hospitality and intrepid spirit made me feel right at home. A tastefully done up house, full of curios, family photographs and elegant upholstery took me back in time. We spent many evenings sharing travel stories with hot toddy by the fireplace in one of the many cosy rooms.  Karma, a handsome, loving, black Bhutiya dog, warmed his way into my heart like no other. Perhaps, that is why I stayed and worked out of here for two months last autumn.

I woke up each morning to the melodious voice of the blue whistling thrush as sunshine filtered through the French windows offering a panoramic view of the lush green mountains and snowy peaks, as the wind carried the sweet fragrance of the purple hydrangeas outside my window. I watched Sher Singh, the gardener, care for the beautiful garden full of bright-coloured flowers and apple trees, come rain or shine. My favourites are the light pink roses – I enjoyed many afternoons by their side.



Room with a view

   
Karma and me

              
                                             The library - a treasure trove of mountain literature


The staff, Rakesh, Pooran, Sher Singh, and Kanta treated me like family. Rakesh, the caretaker and one of the cooks, treated me to waffles, roast chicken, apple crumble, trout amongst many other delicious items, during my stay. Karma and I went on many-a-walks together, up the hill to a lovely meadow overlooking Old Manali and the Manalsu River, towards Lamadugh or a nearby village. These are some of the reasons that I am back here again. And I could not be happier!

I have been waking up to the song of the blue whistling thrush. Outside my window, I watch a pair of red-billed blue-magpies peck away at a few of the leftover apples on the tree. On cloudy days, there is a riot of colour in the air, thanks to a flock of crimson and yellow-bellied sunbirds. Karma meets me with utmost enthusiasm each morning in the hope that I would take him for a walk. His light-brown eyes look into mine for cues. He is most disappointed when I pick up my laptop for work instead. He does have his way eventually.

Hot toddy has been replaced by gin this time round. Evenings spent with Pavane and her friends are always interesting. Her fascinating stories and experiences continue to inspire me.  Pooran, one of the cooks, has been spoiling me with homemade delicacies. On clear nights, I gaze at the millions of stars from the balcony. I doze off listening to the gentle sound of the flowing river. It feels like home. Every time I am here, it becomes difficult to leave.

Some places touch your heart. And then, there are those rare few that move your soul.