Going The Distance

Carrying our backpacks, we made our way;

Traversing new grounds & heights along the way;

Amidst yak bells and over-loaded porters;

Munching on chocolates, we carried as hoarders;

Pushing each other to climb further;

While taking pictures for one another;

Breath - taking scenery and slow, deep breaths;

Took us all the way to Everest Base Camp, step by step.

- Saachi Dhillon

Trekking in Paradise

December 2017, Outlook Money magazine

Of Butterflies & Snowy Peaks

The orange and black butterfly brought back memories from my childhood, flying right above Gobind Sagar reservoir waters, visibly enjoying the new day that had just begun. We were on our way to Kasol, running very late, primarily due to the traffic jam in Delhi and partly due to a few slow moving members of the group. We had stopped for breakfast somewhere close to Bilaspur, with still a long way to go.

Our group captain set the tone for the day by playing some nice numbers on the Volvo’s music system once everyone was back onboard. We were passing through small towns and villages, with open fields on both sides; the mountains beckoning in the distance. The drive to Kasol/ Manali is one of my favourites, with the mighty Beas river flowing alongside.

At Alpine Guest House Cafe

We finally reached our hotel – HHH around lunch time, although we were very tempted to lie down on the soft and luxurious bed; we resisted. My friend, Sukhmani and I decided to head out to one of the many cafes in order to make the most of our free day. The next day, we were to trek up to Kheerganga, a perfect long weekend summer getaway. Alpine Guest House café was our first stop, it had a beautiful view of the snow clad mountains as well as the roaring Parvati river. A hot glass of coffee and paneer pizza provided us with the much needed energy. We went to a German bakery later to have those delicious chocolate balls. Later, we shared the leftover chocolate balls with a beautiful husky who sprang out of nowhere. He did not leave us with much of a choice.

Jim Morrison café, another well known café was unfortunately shut for renovation. We found another great café right behind our hotel called River side cafe. It was a nice, quiet find; by the river as the name suggests.  Their mint tea coupled with the sound of the flowing river was refreshing.

Fresh mint tea

For dinner, we went to an Israeli café on the main road, right opposite Alpine Café’s entrance. Although service was understandably slow, their hummus with lamb and freshly baked pita bread was worth the wait. 

Breathtaking view en route

The next morning, we made our way to Bershani in a taxi, our starting point for the Kheerganga trek. It was a beautiful 45 minute drive past Manikaran and a few other villages en route; the river Parvati flowing alongside as we steadily climbed towards the snow capped mountains. We bought walking sticks for our 14 kms long trek, at Rs. 20 apiece, got a group photograph and off we went. These walking sticks were a good decision, as we later realized. It helped us keep our balance at various rocky, marshy areas.

Our first stop, Nakthan village took us about an hour to reach, the way up here was fairly easy with a few steep areas in between. As we were carrying rucksacks and the sun was out in all its glory, we took frequent water and rest breaks. There were a fair number of trekkers, majority of them carrying day packs. As we kept walking and climbing higher ground, we were getting closer and closer to the snow clad mountain tops. Passing through apple orchards, streamlets and waterfalls along the way made for some amazing photographs and memories. We took a long-ish break at Rudranag which has a couple of dhabas and one of the larger waterfalls; many people took a dip in the icy cold waters there. I lay on the ground, resting my back and taking in the scenery.

Breathing in the deodars

The real trek started post Rudra Nag. It was a steep incline pretty much all the way from there. We were now surrounded by deodar forests, providing us with the much needed shade. As we kept trekking our way up, we could feel the strain in our lower backs. Sukhmani and I made several rest stops, sometimes just to take in the sound of the birds, the river flowing down below, to observe the butterflies flying past us or to simply breathe in the fresh mountain air.

         

Made it!

Campsites at Kheerganga

After a couple of hours, I was absolutely thrilled upon seeing the ‘Welcome to Kheerganga’ sign. After taking a victory picture with it, I dragged myself up the last steep stretch towards our campsite. We were lucky to get a roomy tent for two, the mixed vegetable and rice gave us the much needed energy. After a short nap, we made our way to the famous hot springs. One dip and I could feel the pain and tiredness in my body disappear. Definitely recommended after the arduous trek up!

Reflection of the setting sun

As the sun began to set, we watched it light up the snowy peaks with its warm, orange glow. Once back at our tent, we layered ourselves up with all the woolens we had as it was starting to get cold. It was night sky full of stars; I had not seen so many stars in a very long time. We lay down on the cold ground, star gazing, trying to spot different constellations.

Soon enough, the bon fire had been lit and we could hear everyone singing and dancing around it. As we joined in the merry making, it was a night full of stories, music and laughter under a blanket of stars, a perfect ending to a perfect day.

A trek in snowy Manali

Last Christmas, I participated in the Youth Hostel Association (YHA) of India's Winter Trekking Expedition in Manali.  I had been to Manali loads of times before, but never for an organized trek. Everyone told me that there was no point in going somewhere I had been before, but I am glad that I did. It is one of my most treasured experiences till date. 

View of Solang Valley

YHA Manali is located in picturesque Prini village, on the road leading to Naggar. The auto ride there was lovely, with snow clad mountains on either side. The early morning chilly air on my face was refreshing. After checking in, I went down for some left overs from breakfast as it was past the set time. That's when I realized that I must get into hostel mode quickly in order to not miss out on meals. The view from my room's balcony was breathtaking, overlooking snowy peaks including Solang Valley. 

Icicles on the roof

I went solo as none of my friends were feeling adventurous enough to brave the cold. Although I may have gone alone, I never felt alone there. My Maharashtrian room mates and I had a ball, playing cards/ board games, eating bhakarwadi and home made ladoos in the evenings, exhausted after our respective treks. It's always a good idea to carry snacks or sweets with you for a trek, for in between meals. The temperature would drop to -5 degrees celsius at night. Everybody was assigned a mattress, sleeping bag, a blanket and a pillow each. I froze the first night inspite of having slept in my sweater, 2 pairs of socks, gloves, scarf and a woolen cap! Luckily, somebody left a duvet behind the next day, which kept me warm for the next 4 nights. 

Hostel from a distance

Every morning, we would run down for hot tea at 6 am, get dressed and be ready with our tiffins for breakfast soon after. A few of us would actually go down for yoga at 5 am! I never did manage that. Mostly, because I wanted to be in the warmth of my bed for as long as possible. Initially, it seemed like boot camp but I soon realized how discipline was essential to the programme running smoothly. By 9 am, everybody was off for their respective treks, usually involving at least 10 kms of walking. In between, we would get time to rest, look around or just sit by the river in meditative silence to take in the panoramic view of Kullu valley. We would come back exhausted after the trek and then run down for pakoras and tea in the evenings. It was important to get to the dining hall as soon as the bell rang or risk getting no pakoras/ snacks. 

                      

My favourite trek was the one to a nearby village on the neighbouring mountain. We trekked up the mountain through deep snow and ice. Some of the people backed out, as they were not used to a steep climb. The rest of us carried on to the top and met a baba there. He had been living in isolation and was happy to see us. He sang and played a bhajan for us on his harmonium and gave us interesting insights into life in general. On our way back, some of the boys slid down the mountain as they couldn't keep their balance in the snow. It was a really funny sight. Soon enough, there was a snowball fight where I seemed to be the favourite target. We also got a chance to try some sledging on the icy road with locals, while passing through their village. 

On the last night, we all exchanged contact details to keep in touch for any forthcoming treks. After all the group pictures had been taken, some of us went out to drink some wine and have sheesha under the clear, starlit sky. I saw two shooting stars that night and I wished for more times like these.