Vibrant Vietnam in Outlook Money magazine

September 2017 issue

Island Country: Sri Lanka

Clear blue skies

I just returned from a work trip to the beautiful and largely untouched nation of Sri Lanka. In my free time, I got a chance to explore Colombo, its vibrant capital which I feel is perfect for a weekend getaway from India.

The best way to explore the city and take in its many sights and sounds is by foot. I couldn’t get enough of the greenery, blue skies and cleanliness all around. As a result of its colonial past, the architecture is very impressive. There are many British style townhouses, clock towers, the town-hall, museum and many other sites. The red brick colonial era Victoria memorial hospital was particularly striking. I felt like I was back in Europe.

As soon as we had checked into the hotel, lunch plans were made. A large group of us went to a popular Sri Lankan restaurant - Upali's located close to the Municipal Corporation building. The food was amazing. We ordered an Upali's combo for starters which was served with a tasty, sweet yet spicy green chutney. For main course, we dug into delicious crab curry (or Yapane Kakuluwo) and Fresh lagoon prawns curry (or Isso Beduma). The curry was bursting with flavours, a medley of fresh spices.

Outside National Museum

A few of us then went to explore the National Museum, the largest museum in Sri Lanka, founded by the then governor Sir William Henry Gregory in 1877. The building was beautiful. As we had reached an hour before closing time, we rushed through some of the well curated galleries. It was an educational experience; some of the art, coins and jewellery from the ancient times was fascinating.

As everyone wanted to shop for souvenirs and cotton clothing that the country is famous for, I decided to explore the city a bit more and headed to Galle Face beach instead. There were children flying kites of all shapes of sizes, couples enjoying the ocean breeze, hordes of vendors selling sea street food, a few joggers and the usual tourists like me. I grabbed a beer at a halal restaurant and waited for the sun to dip into the ocean. It was a spectacular sight!

Sunset at Galle Face Beach

As soon as the sun had set, the restaurant owner shouted that it was time to break fast for the people observing Roza during Ramadan. A waiter sprung into action and served a big, deep fried fish to a Muslim couple seated on the next table. What caught my attention was a small plastic bucket and mug kept on the tables, to be used for washing hands. This was the first time that I had come across this custom.

After finishing my beer and enjoying the fantastic ocean view with the sound of the waves crashing against the shore, I decided to buy some souvenirs at Paradise Road. Unfortunately, it was shut by the time I got there as it was past seven which is when most of the shops there close. My enterprising tuk tuk driver took me to Laksala, a government emporium from where I bought some souvenirs. The other places known for shopping are Odel and Barefoot.

Once back at the hotel, a bunch of us decided to head out to Dutch Hospital, a buzzing nightlife and shopping precinct. We had a great time at Tap house, a brewery which had a live band performing there. Later, we headed to The Sky Lounge at The Kingsbury hotel for some delicious dessert and a fantastic view of the Colombo skyline and ocean.

Sail Away in Goa

Goa is a great holiday destination irrespective of the time of year. From shack hopping to relaxing at the beach or pool side to partying the night away, you can do it all. When I was in Goa recently, I discovered another fun experience worth trying - sailing. There is an Aquasail club at Grand Hyatt hotel in Bambolim, located 7 kms away from Panjim, which is where I was staying. It’s a beautiful property sprawled over 28 acres of land, having its own casino, sail club, an adventure hub, a swimming pool and some amazing restaurants and bars.

Me and my friend decided to go sailing in the evening. Priced at Rs. 2500 per person, there is a discount for people staying at the hotel, lowering the price significantly. We got a couple of sail boat options to choose from and off we went. The waters were rough that evening so getting into the boat was tricky. Once in, and on our way, we rode along with the waves, the wind pushing us in the direction that we had wanted to go in; getting splashed in the process. As the sun was beginning to set, its warm glow on my face felt nice. I even got a chance to steer the sail boat which was fun.

As are our half hour slot was coming to an end, we noticed dolphins swimming in the distance. We sailed closer to them and saw them jump in joy, this was an amazing moment, a rare one we were told.

We came back relaxed and refreshed, energized for the night ahead.

A Perilous Journey Home

When Shimla received the season's first snowfall, everybody was in a jubilant mood, all set to go and enjoy the snow. I was in Tattapani, 53 kms away from Shimla, when I heard that it had snowed. I have to admit that I was quite excited myself.

Having lived in London, I have experienced snowfall numerous times, built snow men with soft, fresh snow, slipped and fallen in the snow and have even celebrated a white Diwali! I love it when it snows; trees, cars and the roads are painted a beautiful shade of white and I just can't seem to get enough of it. We were leaving for Chandigarh that day and heard that Shimla was snowed in and shut to vehicular traffic. Upon inquiring from locals, we were advised to take a detour via Salaghat onto Dharampur and then Chandigarh. 

Sleet falling on the way to Dhami

We drove towards Dhami, the closest town en route, experiencing steady rainfall, sleet at a higher altitude and a hailstorm shortly afterwards. Needless to say, the weather was not getting any better and we were eager to get home in one piece. To make sure that we were on the right track, we asked another a couple of other people for directions. They told us about a short cut via Ghanati which would get us closer to our original route so we decided to take it. The road leading there was narrow and had minor landslides. Although we were apprehensive at first, we decided to carry on. A km or so afterwards, the condition of the road deteriorated. There were massive potholes and avoiding them in the incessant rain wasn't easy. There was a sheer drop on the right side of the narrow road so we couldn't turn back. You could feel the tension in the car as everybody sat quietly. We carried on at a speed of 20 kms/ hr and it took us an hour to cover the 15 km stretch.  

Soon after, we were approaching powdered mountains, covered with a thin layer of freshly fallen snow. We passed meadows, houses, vehicles abandoned on the side of the road - all covered under a white blanket. 

Post Ghanati

Snow all around!

Frozen bush

Frozen leaves of tree

I tried capturing a picture of frozen leaves on the road side in the moving car but couldn't quite get the angle I had wanted. 

We were on the main road again. Everyone was relieved and happy to be back in civilization, until we were told that the road ahead was blocked due to snow. We had to re-route again. 

We turned around and made our way towards Arki, passing through thick fog, in which even the bonnet of the car was not visible. It started pouring once we reached Arki. Thankfully, the road ahead was in good condition, narrow but a hundred times better than the previous stretch. 

Rain lashed down on us as we drove on the narrow, winding road ahead. We could only hope that we were on the right track. Shortly afterwards, a car with a Chandigarh number plate overtook us. All of us heaved a sigh of relief. We were extremely lucky not to have gotten stuck because of a land slide, inspite of continuous heavy rain and hail. 

Hailstorm on the way to Subathu

The car slid a couple of times, at turns because of the ice on the road. In a span of four hours, we had witnessed all forms of condensation! Once we reached Subathu, the weather cleared up and we got a glimpse of the setting sun. The journey thereafter was smooth. 

Gorgeous hues of the sky

At Dharampur, we stopped to grab a bite at Hot Millions, a popular eating joint. While eating, I looked up to see the outside traffic hauled up and a man in khaki running after another with a huge stick. I thought the cops were after a thief or something. Till I was told that the bus driver ( in khaki ) was running after a car owner whose car he had banged into. Cops had to intervene and get the disrupted traffic moving again. It was an amusing sight, made us temporarily forget about the treacherous journey we had just undertaken. 

A Weekend in Nice, France

South of France should be a must do on every traveler's bucket list. It is a magical place which makes you fall in love with the country even more.

Azure blue waters. A giant expanse of blue touching the sky. It seems like an uncanny and surreal meeting between the two. The grounded ocean and the high-flying sky. Whether you're walking down the main boulevard, eating at one of the restaurants or checking the selfie you just took, one can't help but take a moment out to stare at this magnificent sight. 

Lovely sunshine shone through our hostel room's antique design wooden french windows. I looked out and got a glimpse into the busy lives of the locals going about their daily business. Soon after, I got acquainted with my room mates, made evening plans with them and left to explore Nice on foot. Although I had an idea of the sights I had wanted to visit, I decided to wander around for a bit, which I highly recommend.

If you're visiting the gorgeous capital city of the French Riviera soon, here's my top 5 things to do in Nice:

1. A meal at an oceanfront cafe/ restaurant - Start your day by having breakfast at one of the many cafés on Promenade des Anglais. Freshly squeezed orange juice, buttermilk pancakes, eggs benedict and the great blue sea on the side is a treat for the senses.

2. Jazz it up at Place Massena - Walking around Nice is the best way to explore the lovely French Riviera capital. Be sure to venture to Place Massena, the main square, during the day to soak in the sun and ornate Italian architecture around. The street jazz musicians make for some fantastic background score while you are loitering around or enjoying a meal at one of the outdoor eateries.

3. A stroll through Old Nice - Passing through alleyways with colourful houses and shops in the old part of town will make you feel like you are back in time. Sit and watch the world go by at one of the quaint patisseries there.

4. Sunset at Castle Hill - Castle Hill gives you fantastic panoramic views of Nice and it's bay. You can stroll around in the park, have a look at the Roman ruins and the gorgeous waterfall there. Watch the setting sun slip into the deep blue Mediterranean sea. A sight not be missed. Make sure to keep a track of time or you may get locked in.

5. A short trip to Monaco - Take a half hour bus ride to the Principality of Monaco. The drive there is very scenic, offering amazing views of the French Riviera. Monaco is definitely the playground of the rich and famous, one quickly realises, by the flurry of yachts, expensive cars and other luxury boutiques one sees there. A trip to Monte Carlo casino definitely reiterates this fact.

Have a great trip!

A year older in dreamy Paris

Ever since I enrolled for French classes at Alliance Francaise, while in college, I was completely smitten by the city of Paris. In class, Paris was projected as the city of dreams, romance and Renaissance. And when I got an opportunity to visit it for my birthday weekend a few years later, Paris was everything (and more) that I hoped it would be.

We got into Paris Gare du Nord station on a cold, foggy morning in January. The station was really impressive, the ornate wall clock on the Eurostar platform, adding to its charm. We managed to navigate our way to the hotel using the beginner level French I had learnt and forgotten years ago. Somehow, it all came back to me there and that is how we found our way around the beautiful city of Paris.

One of my favourite portraits

Our hotel was right down the street from the Eiffel Tower. After settling into the hotel, we started our sightseeing tour on foot, with a map in hand. Our first stop was Orsay Museum featuring exhibits by Monet, Van Gogh and many great artists. After being inspired by some of the greatest art displays, I crossed the road to take in a view of River Seine. I could not help but feel an air of romance around me, with street Jazz musicians on every turn and quaint cafes dotted along every street. 

Paris is magical. Although it was grey and bitingly cold the entire weekend that we were there, the city exuded warmth and love throughout. We managed to visit all major attractions, got lost a couple of times, but soon enough got the hang of finding our way around, on foot - through narrow cobblestone streets and boulevards as well as the metro. I even managed to take a picture with The Mona Lisa, like hordes of other tourists, in front of a security guard, much to my amazement. At dusk, we were at Champs Elysees, the most expensive street in the world, at the time. I visited some of the exclusive, designer show rooms there and walked out shortly afterwards, frightened by the prices. Someday, I thought!

Champs Elysees all lit up

We had dinner at one of the chic bistros there. As the menus were in French, we decided to stick to dishes that were easy to understand. Nevertheless, they turned out to be the complete opposite of what we thought we had ordered. Wine, jazz and Crème brûlée made up for it. There was an on going Christmas fair at the end of the street and the lit up Ferris wheel looked mighty inviting. We went up for a ride in that and got to witness stunning views of Paris at night, with the Eiffel Tower glowing in the distance. Soon enough, it was time for our late night Moulin Rouge show. Good seats, warm hospitality, a glass of bubbly, fabulous costumes and cabaret dance later, we headed back to the hotel.

X'mas Fair close to Champs Elysees

It was going to be midnight soon and I couldn't have asked for a better way to bring in my birthday. Until, of course, just by chance, the Eiffel Tower dazzled us by shining bright like diamonds exactly at midnight. We took pictures and dug into the best Black Forest pastry I have ever had, period. It was one of my best birthdays ever and the start to an even more exciting year, as I later found out.

My first rendezvous with Paris, the City of Light & Romance, left a lasting impression on me. It's like a passionate love affair which makes you keep coming back for more.

Paris is always a good idea - Audrey Hepburn

The Highway 

(Part 1)

Route: Chandigarh to Leh (via Manali)

Distance: Approx 795 kms

Travel Time: 22 hrs

I bought a calendar on Ladakh for my work desk, hoping that the law of attraction would come into play and I would find myself there next summer. One year later, there I was, in the lap of heavenly bliss and wonder. The journey there was nothing short of extraordinary.

After all these years of travel, the highway has certainly become one of my favourite parts of a journey. The Indian Highway is a world of its own. There is so much going on. From the car full of overenthusiastic guys speeding away, blasting music like they own the road to the overstuffed Innova's (SUVs) carrying two entire family generations for a holiday, their luggage tied on top, dancing to the tune of every pothole, daring bikers and finally, the cosy newlyweds off on their honeymoon. Of course, there's the occasional lone traveler, deluxe/ Volvo buses and the king of Indian roads - our very own mustached trucks!

My friend and I took one of the frequent Volvo buses at night from Chandigarh to Manali. We slept for most of the journey, waking up only for an early morning loo/ tea break at a dhaba. If you're traveling in North India, it is hard to miss the frequent road side dhabas. You can smell chai, dal makhani and tandoori rotis from a distance. Of course, half asleep, at 5 am, one could only smell the masala chai and hear the sound of the gushing Beas river. Back on the bus, I took the window seat to enjoy the mesmerizing view of dawn breaking through the mighty Himalayas. The journey from Kullu to Manali is breathtaking; fruit orchards full of litchis, apples and peaches on one side and the flowing river on the other side.

8 hours and 305 kms later, we had arrived in Manali. This is where we were breaking our journey, on the way to Leh. We enquired around to get the best rates for a shared minibus from Manali to Leh and booked it, for later that night. As we had the whole day in Manali, we decided to rest for a bit and do some sightseeing. We headed to Old Manali and unwinded at a river side cafe there. Brushed our teeth, freshened up and started the trip on a healthy note with juice and a fresh fruit bowl. The cafe owner was very friendly and offered us some local rice brew. One sip was enough to give me a giddy feeling and funnily enough, made me very contemplative. We lazed around there for some time and later with the help of some locals, found cheap accommodation for the night.

It was a quaint little guest house called Apple View, on top of a hill with its own orchard and a panoramic view of the deodar covered mountains. We were the only Indians here - only Indian backpacking girls to be precise. With our rucksacks in tow, we made our way up to the large, airy room with a view on the first floor. After a power nap, we headed to La Plage - a French cuisine restaurant amidst apple orchards. We decided to indulge ourselves here; and kick back with beers and delicious food. My slow cooked lamb with red wine jus was to die for! No more extravagance after this, we decided. After all, it was a thoroughly budgeted trip.

We were so happy that the weather was clear, after all the recent, unexpected pre monsoon showers, due to which our travel plans were almost shelved. It was a gorgeous, sunny day perfect for our onward journey to Leh. After slogging away at the desk job for what it seemed like an eternity, this was bliss. I felt so free, uninhibited and jolly.

A couple of hours later, however, it started to rain unexpectedly. We were really worried about landslides en route which would leads to delays or worse - abandoning our travel plans. There are only 2 routes to Leh - one via Manali and the other one via Srinagar. With heavy rain, there is a high chance of the national highway getting blocked, and help is hard to come by.

Thankfully, the rain didn't last long. We called it a night, pretty early as we had to wake up in a few hours for the next leg of the journey. The part we were most excited about!
“The journey not the arrival matters.” 
― T.S. Eliot

Re-discovering the poet in me at Pangong Tso, Ladakh

PANGONG TSO, LADAKH

Lavender fields, whispering breeze

Rocky mountains, green pastures

Icy passes, off beaten roads

Yak's grazing in places unexplored.

Distant voices, unaware of life's choices

Waves flirting with the shore

in a rhythm of their own

Prayer flags aplenty, conscience's empty.

Black mountains, Burnt toast mountains, Silver Stone mountains

Climbing them all one by one, unaware of the fall

Silhouettes of mankind, dark as night

Greed & commotion in all its might.

Simplicity & compassion I yearn

O' from nature we have much to learn.

- Saachi Dhillon