Around Kerala in 7 Days - In a Caravan - Munnar

   

We passed a lot of fruit plantations on our way from Kochi to Munnar. You could see tiny pineapples, bananas and guavas peeking out from under the trees. A delightful sight which you wouldn't come across in normal life. Bananas in all colours were being sold on the roadsides. I even saw some fruit I did not recognise, looked a lot like custard apples. 

On the way to Munnar

Being the rainy season, there were waterfalls of all sizes that had sprung up on hill sides, adding charm to the already breathtaking scenery. We stopped at a big one to take pictures. Greenery surrounded us. We passed through some thick forests and could feel a dip in temperature. Our driver suggested we stop at a Spice Garden to pick up fresh spices. It was a well laid out nursery with medicinal herbs, herbal plants, flower plants and spice plants. The owner gave us a tour of the nursery; while sharing valuable information about the healing properties of various plants. My friend picked up a herbal face creme. I picked up a lot of fresh spices for home.

                        

We reached our guest house late evening. It had a beautiful garden and a fantastic view of the unending tea plantations. The next day, after breakfast, we set out to explore Munnar. It was a lovely, sunny day. The air was cool and crisp. We went to Eravikulam National Park, home to the endangered Nilgiri Tahr as well as several species of rare animals, birds and butterflies. We were enveloped by the mist once we reached the park entrance. We walked about 500 mts to catch a glimpse of the  very unique looking - Nilgiri Tahr and took a few pictures. 

View from the hotel

Mist everywhere

Nilgiri Tahr

After this, we went to the Tata Tea Museum & Gardens for a stroll and got some lovely shots of us. In the evening, we treated ourselves to an authentic Shirodhara Ayurvedic massage in a blink-and-you-will-miss-it massage parlour, recommended by a local. It was definitely the strangest massage experience I have ever had. I was made to lay on a wooden bed, which wasn't comfortable for obvious reasons. I couldn't switch off and enjoy the experience as I was very aware of my surroundings. This was also the first time I left a massage parlour with oil all over my body. I would still recommend it though :p

Later,we got some funny, oily pictures out of it. 

Tea Gardens everywhere

Thekaddy, Periyar National Park, was our next stop. 

Around Kerala in 7 days - In a Caravan

A few friends and I decided to make a trip down to Kerala - Venice of the East, as it is fondly known. Pristine white sand beaches, charming backwaters and Ayurvedic retreats lured us to explore this southern gem on the western coast of India. We took the train from Mumbai all the way down to Kochi.

This was one of the most scenic train journeys that I have ever undertaken. Passing through rolling hills, flat land, the ocean on one side for some part of the journey; and fruit plantations marking the entry into Kerala. The tourism guys have got it spot on. It indeed is; God's Own Country.
We were lucky to find a cheap hotel next to the train station. The room was fairly clean. Without wanting to waste time in exploring Kochi, we freshened up and made our way to the harbour. We got a fantastic view of fishing boats, ships, tankers and islands dotted around in the distance. Surprisingly, we didn't find any restaurants serving local fare in the vicinity; and ended up eating at a food court instead.

Hello Kochi!

Kochi market

The next day, we set off to go and explore Fort Kochi - famous for its sights, cafes and fishing nets. The 15 - 20 minute ferry ride from the harbour to Fort Kochi is joyful. We passed a couple of islands on our way there, including one which is inhabited by an indigenous tribe which has little to no contact with the outside world. Everything they need is on that little island, I was told by our guide. The Chinese fishing nets, St. Francis Church, Mattancherry Palace and the beach there are definitely worth a visit. A one day trip to Fort Kochi is enough to visit all major attractions here. It is also a foodies paradise, known for its eclectic cafes and restaurants.

The ferry

Chinese Fishing Nets

As we were planning to travel from Kochi all the way down to Kovalam, we asked around for a good deal on a cab. In the end, we got a plush caravan with leather seats, a TV, driver and a fantastic music system. All this in 10,000 bucks! We also got good discounts on hotels and sightseeing because of our driver's contacts.

The gorgeous tea county of Munnar was our next stop.

3 Travel Resolutions in 2015

We are 4 days into the New Year; some of us are still recovering from the mayhem that was 31st night. A lot of people have made resolutions regarding their personal and professional lives, where Travel seems to be gaining importance. There are 3 Travel Resolutions every traveller should follow this year.

1. Travel Solo

A lot of people I know want to travel, have adequate finances and time to do so but yet never end up taking that dream trip to Europe or Machhu Pichu. For lack of a travel companion(s). Year after year, they defer their travel plans in the hope that they will find someone to go with. If you are one of those people, I urge you to drop the fear and book yourself a ticket to your dream destination. It can be nerve wrecking, wondering about what to expect and how to get around a new place. Make preparations in advance and you will be fine. You will meet people there who will be happy to guide you; whether it’s your hotel, a café or a shop owner, or a fellow traveler you come across on a busy street. Who knows it might also be the start of a great friendship or a love affair! 

I was very nervous myself on my first solo trip, but it just lasted for the first hour or so, after which I was busy exploring the city, with a map in hand. 

2. Go to little known places

There is nothing more charming than staying at a quaint little cottage by the river in a remote New Zealand town or watching the sunrise over majestic Himalayas in a little known village, away from the crowds. There are way too many places that are waiting to be discovered, the world over. Websites like awayfromthecrowds.com in Spain, theroadlesstraveled.com in USA or indiauntravelled.com in India offer custom made packages to discover lesser known domestic and international destinations, helping you embrace and discover the vibrant culture of places you visit. So, bunk the crowds, make your own path and take the roads less travelled by.

3. Plan and check

Make sure to book flights, trains in advance as you are likely to get a much lower fare and guarantees your place, especially useful during the busy tourist season. Check with the airline at least a week in advance about any change in flight schedule. There are too many stories of people who have missed flights and had to dish out a huge sum for an alternative flight because they were unaware of the change in flight timings. Recently, a family of ten had a miraculous escape from the ill fated crash of Flight 8501 as they had missed the airline’s communication about change in flight schedule. 

Travel Insurance is very important for international trips. All Schengen countries in Europe have a mandatory requirement for valid Travel Insurance, whenever applying for a visa. Make sure to get into the habit of purchasing adequate travel insurance for your trips as a lapse on your part can cost you a fortune in medical expenses abroad, should the need arise.

“Travel brings power and love back into your life.”
― Rumi

A Perilous Journey Home

When Shimla received the season's first snowfall, everybody was in a jubilant mood, all set to go and enjoy the snow. I was in Tattapani, 53 kms away from Shimla, when I heard that it had snowed. I have to admit that I was quite excited myself.

Having lived in London, I have experienced snowfall numerous times, built snow men with soft, fresh snow, slipped and fallen in the snow and have even celebrated a white Diwali! I love it when it snows; trees, cars and the roads are painted a beautiful shade of white and I just can't seem to get enough of it. We were leaving for Chandigarh that day and heard that Shimla was snowed in and shut to vehicular traffic. Upon inquiring from locals, we were advised to take a detour via Salaghat onto Dharampur and then Chandigarh. 

Sleet falling on the way to Dhami

We drove towards Dhami, the closest town en route, experiencing steady rainfall, sleet at a higher altitude and a hailstorm shortly afterwards. Needless to say, the weather was not getting any better and we were eager to get home in one piece. To make sure that we were on the right track, we asked another a couple of other people for directions. They told us about a short cut via Ghanati which would get us closer to our original route so we decided to take it. The road leading there was narrow and had minor landslides. Although we were apprehensive at first, we decided to carry on. A km or so afterwards, the condition of the road deteriorated. There were massive potholes and avoiding them in the incessant rain wasn't easy. There was a sheer drop on the right side of the narrow road so we couldn't turn back. You could feel the tension in the car as everybody sat quietly. We carried on at a speed of 20 kms/ hr and it took us an hour to cover the 15 km stretch.  

Soon after, we were approaching powdered mountains, covered with a thin layer of freshly fallen snow. We passed meadows, houses, vehicles abandoned on the side of the road - all covered under a white blanket. 

Post Ghanati

Snow all around!

Frozen bush

Frozen leaves of tree

I tried capturing a picture of frozen leaves on the road side in the moving car but couldn't quite get the angle I had wanted. 

We were on the main road again. Everyone was relieved and happy to be back in civilization, until we were told that the road ahead was blocked due to snow. We had to re-route again. 

We turned around and made our way towards Arki, passing through thick fog, in which even the bonnet of the car was not visible. It started pouring once we reached Arki. Thankfully, the road ahead was in good condition, narrow but a hundred times better than the previous stretch. 

Rain lashed down on us as we drove on the narrow, winding road ahead. We could only hope that we were on the right track. Shortly afterwards, a car with a Chandigarh number plate overtook us. All of us heaved a sigh of relief. We were extremely lucky not to have gotten stuck because of a land slide, inspite of continuous heavy rain and hail. 

Hailstorm on the way to Subathu

The car slid a couple of times, at turns because of the ice on the road. In a span of four hours, we had witnessed all forms of condensation! Once we reached Subathu, the weather cleared up and we got a glimpse of the setting sun. The journey thereafter was smooth. 

Gorgeous hues of the sky

At Dharampur, we stopped to grab a bite at Hot Millions, a popular eating joint. While eating, I looked up to see the outside traffic hauled up and a man in khaki running after another with a huge stick. I thought the cops were after a thief or something. Till I was told that the bus driver ( in khaki ) was running after a car owner whose car he had banged into. Cops had to intervene and get the disrupted traffic moving again. It was an amusing sight, made us temporarily forget about the treacherous journey we had just undertaken. 

My visit to Terezin Concentration Camp

Some trips remain forever etched in memory, a trip to Terezin Concentration camp on the outskirts of Prague, Czech Republic was one such trip. I had always been curious about the Holocaust and wanted to learn firsthand about the mistreatment of Jewish people during that time. So, while planning my Euro trip itinerary, I made sure to have an extra day in Prague so that I could visit Terezin.

Terezín is a fortress built by the Enlightenment ruler Josef II and although, the building named after his mother Maria Theresa was supposed to be used for defense, it paradoxically became infamous first of all as a prison, and later during World War Two as a Jewish ghetto and concentration camp.

It was a cold and windy day. The sky was overcast, adding to the eerie environment. Right outside the entrance to the fortress, a gigantic Christian Cross and Star of David caught my eye. It was one of the largest cemeteries that I had ever seen. There were hundreds of graves with specs of red on them - poppy flowers were placed on each of the graves; mass graves as I later learnt. It was a melancholically beautiful sight. 

There were a handful of tourists around who soon disappeared. I started the tour of the former military base and fortified city, following the map that I had been provided with, at the entrance. I hadn't opted for one of the organized group tours from Prague as they were charging double the price and I was trying to spend the bare minimum, being on a shoestring budget. Seemed like everybody else was on a group tour!

I first went to the museum to learn more about Terezin and the atrocities that had been committed here. One of the walls was full of the names of the people who had died at the camp. I could not imagine a 7000 people facility being used to house up to 60,000 people! The cramped enclosures, unhygienic conditions, lack of food and basic amenities that they had to live in was appalling and disheartening, to say the least. And yet, they had spirit! This can be seen in the copious pieces of beautiful art, musical and theatrical works of the prisoners that have been well preserved.  

                             

I think we have much to learn from these prisoners. Sometimes, we find ourselves stuck in our own little prisons/ situations where we feel completely immobile. I think the key is to stay strong and keep working towards creating our own "masterpieces" without letting the outside environment get to us. 

            

          

I walked around the rest of the dilapidated fortress feeling overwhelmed. The howling wind and the desertedness of the streets put me on edge. Soon enough, I stumbled upon an antique store which was full of WW2 treasures. I came across beautiful bohemian cutlery, antique guns, old cameras, amongst lots of other interesting stuff. Unfortunately, I could not pick up much as I was in the middle of my backpacking trip through Europe and was unable to carry more stuff. I picked up a couple of WW2 love letters which are really close to my heart.

I completely lost track of time in the antique store and almost missed my bus back. I hurried to the bus stop and did not find the last bus standing there, as scheduled. I panicked and tried to find somebody who spoke English. The tourist office had shut and the handful of locals there only spoke Czech. I had no option but to wait. And hope. And pray. While I was trying to figure out how to get back to Prague, an elderly beggar with crooked, yellow teeth and grey, piercing eyes was slowly limping towards me with the help of a walking stick. 

Internally, I was freaking out but I put up a calm face for him. I tilted my head sideways, indicating that I would not be giving him anything. For a minute, he frowned, staring devilishly into my eyes. That's when I thought here goes my passport and all my money. Thankfully, he walked away, hitting the dustbin with his stick, out of frustration. Right after, my bus arrived.

Terezin was a good learning experience for me. Not only did I learn about the braveries of Jewish people but at the same time, that I am brave. 

“No man is brave that has never walked a hundred miles. If you want to know the truth of who you are, walk until not a person knows your name. Travel is the great leveler, the great teacher, bitter as medicine, crueler than mirror-glass. A long stretch of road will teach you more about yourself than a hundred years of quiet.” - Patrick Rothfuss

Into the Wild

Karwar is a pretty, quaint little town located in the state of Karnataka. It is the first town you enter as soon as you cross the Goa - Karnataka border. Once in Karnataka territory, you are surrounded by rolling hills and lush green fields. The quiet waters of Kali River flowing into the Arabian Sea is a great sight. A few islands dotted along the coast can be seen in the distance.