To The Top

 

Yet to bloom wild lilies sprinkled everywhere

I was on a weeklong vacation in Tirthan valley, a remote fishing hamlet located in the northern, hilly state of Himachal Pradesh. Cutaway from the rest of the world, it seemed like the perfect place to unwind and do some climbing. My brother, Aman, and I booked a quaint B&B by the river set in a deep canyon. After learning about the nearby Crystal Mines & Lambri Top (3600 m) trek, we were keen to explore the surrounding area. While I had been on many treks before, I had not climbed up a known mountaintop in a while. This seemed like a great opportunity to do so. However, due to inclement weather, we were advised against venturing there due to heavy snow lodged at the top. Undeterred, we decided to find someone who would agree to take us there. Luckily, one of my contacts led us to the right person. Pratap, an experienced mountaineer and the head of a local trekking cooperative, would take us to Lambri Top the next day.  Generally, a 3-day trek, we planned to attempt it in one day.

I checked the weather forecast for the next day. It seemed to be clear; a perfect day for hiking. The next morning, we woke up to a glorious, spring day. Sweet birdsong, gentle breeze, and light sunshine peeked into the gorge. We were lucky to get a good weather window. We met Pratap who had brought along a colleague to chalk out an alternate trekking route. He was unable to find crampons anywhere in the tiny village so we decided to carry on and try our luck.

The starting point of the trek was located 20 kms away from the village of Jamala, the endpoint of the Sarchi road. We drove on a smooth, narrow road snaking up through a deep mountainous valley, on the fringe of the Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP). A UNESCO world heritage site, the park spread over 754km²  is known for its rich biodiversity including medicinal plants and several threatened species, and is characterized by high alpine peaks, alpine meadows, and riverine forests. Lush green, picturesque surroundings, outlined by craggy white peaks as far as the eye could see. It felt like I was in the lap of the Himalayas, being gently caressed by the gentle breeze.

As we gained altitude, a fabulous view of the magnificent, snow-clad peaks came into view. I gasped at the natural beauty surrounding us and tried to capture it on camera. Thick deciduous forests, colourful houses peppered along the mountainside, and apple orchards covered with white plastic sheets to protect them from unseasonal hail and snow. The white sheets gave the illusion of snow from a distance. Global warming seemed to be increasingly prominent.

A first glimpse of the snowy climb

                                                 

It took us roughly an hour to reach our starting point. We could see a white Lambri Top in the distance. As we could only spot a small section of the peak from the road, it was hard to tell how much of the mountain was covered in snow. We walked past a handful of traditional Himachali homes in the tiny settlement of Jamala. Curious village folk peeped out of their homes to look at us, while the cattle and sheep grazed leisurely in the early morning sun. A young girl asked us where we were going. She told me that I would not be able to make it. I smiled and told her that she would be surprised. There were a handful of homes and a couple of guesthouses under construction. The closest market was in the nearby village of Sarchi.

As we exited the village, a verdant green meadow opened up in front of us. Our guide, Pratap pointed at the view behind us. I turned around to find a breath-taking view of the Western Himalayas as the first light tinted the snow-clad peaks. We walked on a narrow trail through thick deodar and pine forest. The trees were more than a hundred feet tall and would have witnessed many adventurers like us across centuries. Its needlelike leaves swayed gently in the light breeze as if to stir up a conversation with us. The ground was still moist with dew. I breathed in the damp, crisp air diffused with the scent of pine. My trekking poles helped me maintain a steady pace and keep my balance while walking over slippery pine needles and loose stones that covered the thin mountain path. The melodious song of the oriental white eye and blue whistling thrush kept us enthralled.

Thousands of yet to blossom wild lilies were sprinkled all over the hillside. I imagined what a beautiful sight it would be to walk amongst them in full bloom. Pratap asked us to fill our water bottles at a streamlet flowing down from the melting snowcaps over boulders covered with moss. ‘This is the purest water you can ever drink. It will rejuvenate your senses and clear any ailments’, he said. As we crossed over a makeshift wooden bridge onto the adjoining mountain, the real climb began.

It seemed that the entire hillside had been ravaged by a terrible storm. We climbed over uprooted tree tops blocking the path. The steep gradient coupled with scree, leaves, and a barely-there path slowed us down. We were the only ones on the trail. At 2800 m, we came across chunks of muddy ice from time to time. I looked up at the tree-lined blue sky and listened to the whispers of the rustling leaves under my feet. Three hours into the trek, we stopped for a refreshment break. Pratap, also an avid birder, told us about the various birds surrounding us based on their unique call. As we started to make our way again, a pair of shrieking Himalayan monals darted across the sky. Their colourful greenish-blue foliage glinted in the sunshine.

We came across our first stretch of soft snow. Excitedly, I stepped forward, only for one of my legs to get stuck knee-deep in it. I laughed as both guides pulled me out. Aman seemed worried. He was not wearing waterproof shoes unlike me and was skeptical about navigating a near 400 m vertical incline in deep snow. He kept suggesting that we turn around due to a bad experience in the past, but I was keen to go all the way. I reassured him that we were in good hands. While I told him that we could always turn around later, if required, I was determined to reach the top. When I gave Aman the option to wait it out, he did not want to leave me alone.

A near 400 mtr vertical climb

Soon, we neared the sharp ascent and looked up. A solitary tree stood tall near the summit. As the sun had been out for a few hours, the ice had melted in some sections making it easier for us to get a grip on soft snow. It seemed to be about 4 - 5 feet deep at places. As our guides were familiar with this route, they were confident of climbing without much difficulty. Pratap advised against walking close to rocks as there was no way to tell how deep the crevice would be in case of a fall. We walked in a zig-zag fashion. I dug my boots into the snow to get a good grip. It was difficult to walk more than ten steps at a stretch. I turned around to witness an even better view of the snow-clad Himalayas. The camera could not capture the beauty my eyes could see. I could feel my heartbeat in my chest. Other than that, the calming sound of silence. A solitary raven glided in the azure skies above us. We were all tired but happy.

We started to make our way again. Each step felt reflective. We were so close to the mountaintop. I could hardly contain my excitement. We came across a dark, moistened rock wall on which water trickled off icy crystals into a small pool. I snapped off one of the ice crystals and pretended to eat it for a photograph. We filled our bottles again and kept climbing. Aman seemed anxious but did not turn back. It took us about an hour to reach the halfway point. I rested on a rock while gazing at the scenic views and the precipitous slope we had just traversed. A curious marmot came out to see what the commotion was about. Satisfied, it returned to its hiding place. ‘Another 40 - 50 minutes’, Pratap announced. I leaped forward with excitement. It took an immense amount of effort to trudge my way up.

Almost there

                                       

The virgin snow glinted under the afternoon sun. My energy levels were depleting but my determination to get there was at its peak. I could not walk more than five steps at a time before stopping for a break. I took a deep breath as my heart thumped in my chest. ‘Almost there,’ the guides told us. I was brimming with joy. We moved slowly and soon, we were there. On top of the world.

 

Sweeping views of GHNP

An extraordinary view of the entire Great Himalayan National Park and the extensive Himalayan range - all the way from the Dhauladhars to Kinnaur left us spellbound. Majestic snowy peaks, undulating mountain valleys, luscious green forests and sapphire blue skies. On the other side of the valley, we had a lovely view of Jalori Pass amidst thick forest and green meadows bespeckled with snow.

The sweet melody of a pair of alpine choughs was music to the ears. It reminded me of my time on the Everest trail where they often gave me company on solitary walks. At a short distance, we noticed a small shrine made of stones - a temple for a local deity. I bowed my head in prayer and gratitude.

A Walk in the Woods

It was a bright, lovely autumn day. I woke up early for my trek from Vashisht towards Bhrigu. My friends had ditched me last minute and I was in no mood to waste a free day. Although I felt anxious the night before, I decided to go ahead with my plans anyway. En-route, Vishal, my friendly, well-mannered driver chatted with me about various treks in the area. He was also quick to caution me about any ‘druggies’ that I may meet along the way. Apart from that, there was no danger, he said.

Feeling confident and raring to go, I was unperturbed by this little piece of information. The trail started from alongside the Vashisht temple where I asked a little girl for directions. I started to climb up the stone steps, stopping every few minutes to catch my breath.  As I stood outside the last house in the village wondering which of the two paths to take, an old man magically appeared as if to guide me on where to go.

From there, it was a steep uphill climb. Little did I realise that it would only get steeper as I climbed higher. The morning sun rays, birdsong, and sweeping valley views of the snowy mountains kept me captivated. Steps carved out of stone soon turned into a steep dirt track with loose stones and rocks strewn all around. While I would want to catch a breather every now and then, I had to keep a firm grip on the ground to avoid rolling down the mountain! The path did flatten out at times, however, too few times to count. Leaky pipes along the way made for a muddy adventure. It did come in handy when I had to wash my hands from all the holding onto rocks, bushes and tree branches to carry myself up precipitous corners.

Starting out from Vashisht village

A verdant green mountainside

Navigating rocks and loose stones en-route

Breath-taking views

Jogini waterfall

One of the flat sections on the trail

I enjoyed walking at my own pace without a destination in mind. For a change, I was actually taking the time out to enjoy the journey and the beautiful surroundings. With no one around, I had the cool breeze in my hair and chirping birds for company. It was so quiet that at one point I could hear the sound of rustling leaves and spotted an oriental turtle dove foraging through them for any light bites. Further on, I was lucky to catch a glimpse of the colourful Himalayan Monal, its electric blue coat glinting in the sun. Throughout the way, I only came across two villagers making their way down for supplies. Apart from that, it was just me and nature in all its glory. I have never felt more at home.

My friend had told me that I might get bored alone. On the other hand, I had the most magical time being in the moment – bird-watching, filtering through happy memories and gazing at the mighty Himalayas. I went on a trek alone after many years. Generally, I am always trying to keep up or catch up with someone, oftentimes missing the lovely views and the journey. This time it was different. Every step felt meditative. I feel like I came back stronger, except the minor aches courtesy a few slips along the way. Perhaps, that’s what makes the journey even more worthwhile.

A happy poser

Barot: The Perfect Monsoon Getaway

Imagine waking up to the sound of the river, melodious birdsong, and the perfect morning view. As you sit by the river drinking your morning cup of tea, a green carpet of Himalayan deodar trees beckon. Dark clouds rumbling overhead as you set out on a morning walk. Expect this and much more at Barot, situated 6020 ft above sea level.  

View from our hotel - Taj River View

Set deep in the Himalayan valley, Barot is a trekkers’ and nature lovers paradise. It is most famous for trout farming and a gateway to the Nargu Wildlife Sanctuary. It is roughly an 8-hour drive from Chandigarh. You could also break your journey at Palampur or Bir-Billing for a night and then head upwards. Here are the top things to do while you are there:

1. Visit a trout farm – Although a major tourist spot, there was nobody there when I visited. It was interesting to see the famous trout fish at different stages of the lifecycle, from fry (baby trout) to sub-adult to a fully grown adult. They seemed to be enjoying each other’s company, as they swam together.

Natural waterfall

      2. Visit a waterfall – In the rainy season, you are likely to come across more than one waterfall here. If you are walking from Barot Reservoir towards Jharwar, you will pass a natural car wash, opposite which lies a lovely green pasture. Walk towards the mountain, and you will come across a small waterfall flowing down. This is a great place for a picnic or to just relax. Sheshnag waterfall is another popular attraction, though not as impressive.

        3.  Sit by the river – Take a good book or company and plonk yourself on one of the huge rocks by the river. There is nothing more meditative than listening to the gushing river while raindrops fall on your head. Take an umbrella, just in case there is a heavy downpour!

     4. Take a hike – With so many forest trails to choose from, it is hard not to go for a hike. Climb up a mountain and you are likely to come across a friendly local or two who are eager to help. Walk amongst deodar trees, breathe in fresh mountain air and forget your worries in this paradisal valley.

  5. Gorge on fish delicacies – Barot is a delight for nonvegetarians. From fish curry to fish pakodas to steamed fish, there is plenty to choose from. Taj River View Hotel has amazing food, perhaps one of the best there.

If you are looking for the perfect long weekend getaway, pack your bags and head to Barot. You will come back rejuvenated.

p.s: I love writing such pieces especially when the monsoon gods are showering us with their blessings! Like this morning :)

A trek to the high altitude, glacial Kareri Lake

At Kareri lake

On the May Day weekend, I along with my brother decided to go on a trek to a relatively lesser known destination – Kareri Lake. We were a group of 12 people, a mix of solo travellers, friends and siblings (a rare pairing, as we learnt). What we all had in common was our eagerness to escape the humdrum of our city lives.

Aman and I

We were served a buffet breakfast at Kareri village, our starting point for the 15 kms trek, with a hearty serving of the snow clad Himalayas on the side. Our group leader, Ashish gave everyone some instructions on responsible travel and we were on our way. We trekked through green pastures, blooming rhododendron trees and broad leaf forests. Once the actual trail began, we were literally climbing up the river bed, traversing huge rocks in the process. A few lunges later, I could feel the muscles in my thighs awaken. We kept moving ahead, taking frequent breaks along the way.

The first stop was next to a small waterfall where we filled our water bottles with fresh, chilled stream water. Some people dipped their feet in the water while the more adventurous ones, their heads. I munched on chocolates and frooti along the way in order to keep my energy levels high. The clean air, flora and fauna were such a welcome relief from my busy city life. A black dog kept us company along the way, stopping as and when we would.

We were close to our base camp, Reoti village, when dark clouds set in. As thunder roared above our heads, we kept walking ahead. Light rainfall followed. We stopped for a late lunch at a small café set inside a cave. A short while later, we crossed over a metal bridge and reached Reoti village. Everyone took a moment to take in the beautiful scenery; sheep grazing on the mountains and the Nyund nallah flowing through.

Campsite at Reoti village

Our camp for the night was set in a deep valley; a bamboo bridge dividing tents on either side. Our tent had the most magical view, of the forest and the stream running through. Just when everyone was settling in, there was heavy rainfall. Aman, my brother and I listened to the Doors as raindrops battered our tent. Our evening snacks comprising of tea, popcorn and maggi were just what we needed to enjoy the lovely weather and scenery.

At night, everyone shared their stories huddled around a bon fire under the starry night sky.

One of the many ladybirds

Up the river bed

We embarked upon the remainder of our trek the next day, right after breakfast. Along the way, I took a dip in the icy cold waters, which was one of the trip highlights for me. Many others followed suit. The trail was tiring yet picturesque; I took frequent breaks to admire nature in all its glory. There were all kinds of ladybirds along the way, their body designs fascinating.  

As we reached the top of the valley, we could see the snowy mountains up close. The sight of the beautiful, fresh water Kareri Lake amidst snowy mountains made me forget all about the arduous journey that we had undertaken.

As we trekked up the rocky, sometimes steep trail, I was reminded of challenging situations that I had faced recently; the trick is to keep swiftly moving ahead.